We hit the ground running in Vienna. Natalie donned her traveling hat,
and I put on my heaviest coat and walking boots,
And Steve put on his rain slicker complete with city and subway maps,
And Brendan brought along the essentials: SNACKS. These Weiner frankfurters were easily over a foot long. (We wondered why everything was "Weiner" this and "Weiner" that until Steve figured out "Wiener" means "Vienna," basically of the vine) Viennese put their sausages in a roll, through a slit in the top and then they squirt a spicy condiment, a horseradish ketchup concoction, in the center. It's pretty yummy.
And Brendan brought along the essentials: SNACKS. These Weiner frankfurters were easily over a foot long. (We wondered why everything was "Weiner" this and "Weiner" that until Steve figured out "Wiener" means "Vienna," basically of the vine) Viennese put their sausages in a roll, through a slit in the top and then they squirt a spicy condiment, a horseradish ketchup concoction, in the center. It's pretty yummy.
After Brendan was satiated we stopped to watch some street performers-- break dancers and another guy who threw this spinning yo-yo toy thing higher than the buildings and caught it. We followed the crowds into St. Stephansdom 1147 Gothic Cathedral where the Viennese were all lighting candles for their ancestors for "All Souls" day. Afterwards, we went in search of some hot chocolate to warm up.
We stumbled upon St. Peters church and were graced with a choir singing works from Haydn, Schubert, Strauss, Brahms, and Mozart. After watching "Amadeus" as a kid I wanted to see one of Mozart Opera's like "The Marriage of Figaro." But it was off season and the shows were limited, and even the nosebleed tickets were 50 euro. Steve wasn't about to pay that kind of cha ching for the kids as he was sure they would be bored out of their heads with an Opera and Orchestra after 15 minutes.
The next day we didn't get out of bed early enough to hear the Vienna Boy's Choir but we did get into the Hofburg palace to the Spanische Hofreitschule! The what? The Spanish Horse riding school where they train the famous white Lipizzaner horses.
This palace hall is where the riders would perform for the Holy Roman Emperor Franz Joseph of Austria.
Check out the chandelier...
These stallions are born black and turn white at 4 years. They have been performing in this "school" with 46 Corinthian columns and 3 story gallery since 1735 for Emperor Maximilian. These horses were actually used in battle and defeated the French army in Prague in 1743.
The impressive dressage at the Olympics was nothing compared to this show-- these Lipizzaner were INCREDIBLE! The horses could do these pirouett's on a dime and, this cool move, above, called a "kapriole." The horse stands in place and jumps and kicks his back legs straight behind him. It's the most amazing thing!
This move is called a "courbette" the horse actually hops along on just his back legs and the rider has nothing but leg strength to hold on (no stirrups). We just stood there holding our breath it was so stunning. They can also hold the "levade" where the horse's full weight is just on his hind quarters and they balance.
The horses are stabled in the open because they are gregarious horses and they like to "people watch." Funny that they like to look at us as much as we like to look at them.
This is the inner courtyard of Hofburg palace where little Marie Antoinette played before she was shipped off to France at age 14 to marry the future King Louis XVI. Natalie and I read about her life before we arrived in Austria. Marie was the 15th child of the Empress Maria Theresa and was pretty much neglected due to her mother's demanding work running a kingdom and fighting the Prussians. Marie Antoinette was somewhat illiterate and struggled to write in her native German. When her mother decided to marry her off to make alliances, poor Marie Antoinette struggled to learn another language, French, and the "language" of the court which consisted of coy conversation, card playing, etc.
We stumbled upon St. Peters church and were graced with a choir singing works from Haydn, Schubert, Strauss, Brahms, and Mozart. After watching "Amadeus" as a kid I wanted to see one of Mozart Opera's like "The Marriage of Figaro." But it was off season and the shows were limited, and even the nosebleed tickets were 50 euro. Steve wasn't about to pay that kind of cha ching for the kids as he was sure they would be bored out of their heads with an Opera and Orchestra after 15 minutes.
The next day we didn't get out of bed early enough to hear the Vienna Boy's Choir but we did get into the Hofburg palace to the Spanische Hofreitschule! The what? The Spanish Horse riding school where they train the famous white Lipizzaner horses.
This palace hall is where the riders would perform for the Holy Roman Emperor Franz Joseph of Austria.
Check out the chandelier...
These stallions are born black and turn white at 4 years. They have been performing in this "school" with 46 Corinthian columns and 3 story gallery since 1735 for Emperor Maximilian. These horses were actually used in battle and defeated the French army in Prague in 1743.
The impressive dressage at the Olympics was nothing compared to this show-- these Lipizzaner were INCREDIBLE! The horses could do these pirouett's on a dime and, this cool move, above, called a "kapriole." The horse stands in place and jumps and kicks his back legs straight behind him. It's the most amazing thing!This move is called a "courbette" the horse actually hops along on just his back legs and the rider has nothing but leg strength to hold on (no stirrups). We just stood there holding our breath it was so stunning. They can also hold the "levade" where the horse's full weight is just on his hind quarters and they balance.
The horses are stabled in the open because they are gregarious horses and they like to "people watch." Funny that they like to look at us as much as we like to look at them.
This is the inner courtyard of Hofburg palace where little Marie Antoinette played before she was shipped off to France at age 14 to marry the future King Louis XVI. Natalie and I read about her life before we arrived in Austria. Marie was the 15th child of the Empress Maria Theresa and was pretty much neglected due to her mother's demanding work running a kingdom and fighting the Prussians. Marie Antoinette was somewhat illiterate and struggled to write in her native German. When her mother decided to marry her off to make alliances, poor Marie Antoinette struggled to learn another language, French, and the "language" of the court which consisted of coy conversation, card playing, etc.
This is the Swiss Gate that had Swiss Guards to protect the Empress. I wonder if the Vatican is the only country that still has Swiss Guards? 
We are off to the Kunsthistorisches Museum and I am all smiles-- Natalie can't contain her lack of enthusiasm.
Statue of Empress maria Theresa (above), gesturing to go in the Museum.... a great idea on a gloomy overcast day
I love Rembrandts, Durers and Vermeers, the greats of Northern artists but I fell in love with an lesser known Italian artist "Latto" who depicted Mary and baby Jesus,
As well as the famous Raphello version of the same subject. Had to fight off a tour group and a Japanese man to get in front of this painting.
But Caravaggio's chiaroscuro painting of Christ receiving this crown of thorns haunted me long after we left. Brendan surprised me and enjoyed the Dutch Bruegel paintings. (The Bastian side moved from Denmark to Holland and would have been around to see the same paintings had they been displayed. I told the kids they were blessed to see these masterpieces on public display but they just sighed with glassed over eyes and ENDURED)
Canova sculpted this magnificent piece of muscles (don't worry that's a fig leaf over the male parts) You could tell that this was the land of the Holy Roman Emperor as many of the pieces in the museum were Italian. (We have a little restaurant near the Spanish Steps in Rome where you can actually eat in Canova's workshop among his sculptures. It's a great place for lunch) Anyway, it was great seeing so many of the Flemish, Dutch and German artwork which normally I only see in art books.
Strolled past the Greek looking parliament building.
This is where the Austrian Republic was proclaimed in Oct. 1918 at the end of WWI. Hitler declared Austria part of the Third Reich in March 1938. Then Vienna was divided into 4 zones by the Allied powers (England, US, Russia and France) after WWII. Austria didn't gain its full sovereignty until 1955. Glad they have restored all the landmarks that were bombed so heavily. It's a beautiful, clean city.
We are off to the Kunsthistorisches Museum and I am all smiles-- Natalie can't contain her lack of enthusiasm.
Statue of Empress maria Theresa (above), gesturing to go in the Museum.... a great idea on a gloomy overcast day
I love Rembrandts, Durers and Vermeers, the greats of Northern artists but I fell in love with an lesser known Italian artist "Latto" who depicted Mary and baby Jesus,
As well as the famous Raphello version of the same subject. Had to fight off a tour group and a Japanese man to get in front of this painting.
But Caravaggio's chiaroscuro painting of Christ receiving this crown of thorns haunted me long after we left. Brendan surprised me and enjoyed the Dutch Bruegel paintings. (The Bastian side moved from Denmark to Holland and would have been around to see the same paintings had they been displayed. I told the kids they were blessed to see these masterpieces on public display but they just sighed with glassed over eyes and ENDURED)
Canova sculpted this magnificent piece of muscles (don't worry that's a fig leaf over the male parts) You could tell that this was the land of the Holy Roman Emperor as many of the pieces in the museum were Italian. (We have a little restaurant near the Spanish Steps in Rome where you can actually eat in Canova's workshop among his sculptures. It's a great place for lunch) Anyway, it was great seeing so many of the Flemish, Dutch and German artwork which normally I only see in art books.
Strolled past the Greek looking parliament building.
This is where the Austrian Republic was proclaimed in Oct. 1918 at the end of WWI. Hitler declared Austria part of the Third Reich in March 1938. Then Vienna was divided into 4 zones by the Allied powers (England, US, Russia and France) after WWII. Austria didn't gain its full sovereignty until 1955. Glad they have restored all the landmarks that were bombed so heavily. It's a beautiful, clean city.
Strolled past City Hall and were sad that all the Christmas markets beside it were still being put together. We missed them by a few days. I was hoping to buy a little Austrian nativity set.
But this neo Gothic town hall with it's spires with its 1575 rooms for the city council is impressive all lit up at night.
The next morning we were off to Schonbrunn Palace, basically a smaller copy of Versailles outside Paris.
This summer residence for the Habsburgs was built after the Turkish siege of 1683.
We couldn't take pictures inside, unfortunately, but it was all pretty Rococo decorations and even had it's own copy of the Hall of Mirrors where the peace treaty was signed. Inside Empress Maria Theresa had pictures of her 16 children. You could see portraits in many rooms of Marie Antoinette. There was even a room where Napoleon lived when he occupied Vienna from 1805-09. This palace is where 6 yr old Mozart played for the Empress.
The gardens were pretty even tho they had removed all the planted flowers just days before.
There were cute little covered walkways strewn with fall foliage. Joggers were everywhere.
Getting outside again the kids started to smile.
But this neo Gothic town hall with it's spires with its 1575 rooms for the city council is impressive all lit up at night.
The next morning we were off to Schonbrunn Palace, basically a smaller copy of Versailles outside Paris.
This summer residence for the Habsburgs was built after the Turkish siege of 1683.
We couldn't take pictures inside, unfortunately, but it was all pretty Rococo decorations and even had it's own copy of the Hall of Mirrors where the peace treaty was signed. Inside Empress Maria Theresa had pictures of her 16 children. You could see portraits in many rooms of Marie Antoinette. There was even a room where Napoleon lived when he occupied Vienna from 1805-09. This palace is where 6 yr old Mozart played for the Empress.
The gardens were pretty even tho they had removed all the planted flowers just days before.
There were cute little covered walkways strewn with fall foliage. Joggers were everywhere.Getting outside again the kids started to smile.
This edifice is the "gloriette" on a summit at the far end of the palace grounds--- of course we had to climb up to it.
(looking back at the Palace)
(looking back at the Palace)
Here's the "halfway" view of the city below.
This gloriette used to be a dining hall for the Royal family, now it's a cafe where you can get a snack to refuel after the climb.
This gloriette used to be a dining hall for the Royal family, now it's a cafe where you can get a snack to refuel after the climb.
Fall sun always casts great shadows
and the cold makes the prettiest colored leaves.
Found a new favorite food "lagos" at the zoo next door. It's bascially fried bread with garlic and salt. We kept seeing people walking with them but we didn't know what they were called. Brendan finally saw a sign and went to purchase one but they didn't understand what he wanted. Finally Brendan pointed. The man laughed and pronounced it "Lagosh." Things didn't fare too well with me either when I tried to order lunch in German. No one "Sprechen sie Englisch." (I needed Jennifer-- she took a few years of German) I did alot of pointing and said alot of "Ja's" and "Nine's" which is "yes" and "no" and "danke"-- thanks. We didn't end up with what I tried to order but what they gave us was good anyway.
They had actual pumpkins at the Zoo! I've missed these symbols of fall. To everyone's dismay I made them pose in front of the cute "ma and pa pumpkin people."
and the cold makes the prettiest colored leaves.
Found a new favorite food "lagos" at the zoo next door. It's bascially fried bread with garlic and salt. We kept seeing people walking with them but we didn't know what they were called. Brendan finally saw a sign and went to purchase one but they didn't understand what he wanted. Finally Brendan pointed. The man laughed and pronounced it "Lagosh." Things didn't fare too well with me either when I tried to order lunch in German. No one "Sprechen sie Englisch." (I needed Jennifer-- she took a few years of German) I did alot of pointing and said alot of "Ja's" and "Nine's" which is "yes" and "no" and "danke"-- thanks. We didn't end up with what I tried to order but what they gave us was good anyway.
They had actual pumpkins at the Zoo! I've missed these symbols of fall. To everyone's dismay I made them pose in front of the cute "ma and pa pumpkin people."
After I fed my animals, we explored the other cute animals around. Love this Red Panda. He was very friendly.
These adorable penguins could have posed for Ilene's couple kissing page in her wedding album
We were hoping this polar bear would get in and swim but I think he was looking at us like we were "lagos" lunch.
These adorable penguins could have posed for Ilene's couple kissing page in her wedding album
We were hoping this polar bear would get in and swim but I think he was looking at us like we were "lagos" lunch.
The Panda stole the show. What is it that is so cute about them? The makeup around the eyes? The voracious apetite for bamboo. All I know is we were all wishing we could pet him.
I accidently erased my tiger eating a poor white rabbit. Ich. Never really seen big zoo carnivors eating other animals before.
"King Louis" looked like he stepped out of "Jungle Book." This orangatan really loved watching people. He would get off his vines and go sit on his bucket in front of the glass and try to touch the children.
This looked too cute to be the big bad wolf. This little pig wanted to go pet him but I'm sure I would have ended up like the poor rabbit.
This cheetah also had me in his sights. I had lunch written all over my forehead.
Austrians have strict rules about walking on the grass. Old people will actually acost you if you step on the manicured lawns. Despite this, we enjoyed the park anyways. I can see why these Europeans laud their green spaces.
Decided to finish the evening by looking over the city in an old Ferris Wheet called the Risenrad.
Kids were a bit dissapointed as it went really s-l-o-w. But what do you expect from something over 100 years old?
It was a nice sunset though and we enjoyed the view of Vienna's rooftops.
Some of these boxes you could actually dine in.
After the ride we stopped and got giant soft pretzels and chocolate cake called sachertorte.
I accidently erased my tiger eating a poor white rabbit. Ich. Never really seen big zoo carnivors eating other animals before.
"King Louis" looked like he stepped out of "Jungle Book." This orangatan really loved watching people. He would get off his vines and go sit on his bucket in front of the glass and try to touch the children.
This looked too cute to be the big bad wolf. This little pig wanted to go pet him but I'm sure I would have ended up like the poor rabbit.
This cheetah also had me in his sights. I had lunch written all over my forehead.
Austrians have strict rules about walking on the grass. Old people will actually acost you if you step on the manicured lawns. Despite this, we enjoyed the park anyways. I can see why these Europeans laud their green spaces.Decided to finish the evening by looking over the city in an old Ferris Wheet called the Risenrad.
Kids were a bit dissapointed as it went really s-l-o-w. But what do you expect from something over 100 years old?
It was a nice sunset though and we enjoyed the view of Vienna's rooftops.
Some of these boxes you could actually dine in.
After the ride we stopped and got giant soft pretzels and chocolate cake called sachertorte.We said "Auf wiedersehen," goodbye to Austria and prepared to start hearing Hungarian. I can see why Mozart was inspired to write music after visiting here. Brendan knows me too well. He looked at me and said unannounced "No I will not play Mozart's Minuet for you when we get home!"
1 comment:
That was some field trip! I'm so jealous!!!!!!!!!!!!
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