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Thursday, December 31, 2009

Head in the clouds

One of my favorite movies is "A Walk in the Clouds." On the last leg of our Sicily trip we literally walked in the clouds when we went up 2,500 feet on the western coast of Sicily to a little medieval town named Erice by Mussolini. (It was first called Gebel-Hamed by the Arabs who lived here first and Monte San Giuliano by the Normans who came after) Steve had to navigate narrow switchbacks right up against the edge of the cliff to get us here.

We started off in sunshine as we strolled down the narrow alleys
It was just as interesting to look down at the road as it was to look up at the sights.


This old Norman church is Chiesa Madre

Love the moss colored Roman arch over the door

and the bell tower

Everywhere we looked there were amazing details to attract the eyes



This city was built on a temple that was built to Venus and her image can be seen around the city

We had the place to ourselves. It was chilly and seemed deserted and it was completely wonderful






The clouds started to roll in and we couldn't see the ocean or town below

This 12th century Norman castle: Castello Di Venere looked so eerie and otherworldly with the clouds floating all around us.


This reminded me of a Rapunzel castle
It felt like walking in a fairy tale. I just needed a knight to step out with his lance and trusty steed



Then the clouds blew away and we could see the town and sea again far below

This is actually a honeymoon destination...looks more like a scene from Wuthering Heights to me

And there is my handsome Knight Steve.


We soaked up some sun for a few moments before the clouds rolled in again

On our way to get some lunch Steve spotted this dog driving his master's car
And these dogs gossiping about the latest

Finished off the day and gave our dogs (tired feet) a rest and ate the delicacy of Erice sweetened Almond cookies.


A romantic like me finally understands what it's like to walk around with your head up in the clouds. We physically came down but my heart remains in Sicily....

Wednesday, December 30, 2009

Valle Dei Templi - Valley of the Temples

I was prepared to be amazed-- after all, these 9 temples in Southern Sicily were touted to be the "finest classical remains outside Greece" and a UNESCO World Heritage Site to boot.

When we arrived in Agrigento, we had to climb the hill to the Temple of Concordia like ancient Greeks would have done to worship, and I was floored! The doric columns were 23 feet high and have been standing for 2500 years!!!

The crepidoma or stepped base was taller than me

The Greeks always build their temples on a hillside so it can be seen from the ocean

I don't know if I could say the scenery or the temples were more impressive. Man and God's hand made two creations that were astounding together.

This inner room is called a cella. The Christians who came came through here after the Carthaginians attacked turned this Pagan temple into a church for a time.

You can see the modern city in the background--not half as impressive as the ancient world.


On the next ridge was the ruins of the temple of Juno or Hera the goddess of Fertility, matrimony and childbirth.

Just 25 of the original 34 columns remain.
Steve climbed all over this 20 plus years ago as a missionary. Unfortunately it was blocked off. Tho it didn't stop some crazy people from ignoring the barricade and climbing in. Guess they had the Greek philosophy that the temples were "built for eternity" but like the Greeks they lived like "there was no tomorrow or no consequences."
This ancient Olive tree could probably tell a lifetime of stories if it could speak


We made our way over to the Temple of Hercules that had been destroyed by the Carthaginians who burned it and and Byzantines settlers who dismantled it.


The golden sandstone columns would have been covered by glazed marble stucco

Posing as one of the caryatid columns holding up the pediment


We walked on and found this area across a modern road. This cool colosseus giant is called a Telamones
These figures would have held up the pediment and made a temple over 100 feet tall
It looked like the Michelin Man

This is all that is left of the temple of Castor and Pollux, the twin sons of Zeus
Cattle were sacrificed here


There was column debris everywhere.

Somehow it escaped me to take a photo of the twins Pete and Steve here

Everyone was hungry so we headed into modern Agrigento to eat an authentic meal from the sea nearby. We had fresh octopus, squid and mussels. I am not usually a fan but this fresh food was pretty darn good. It was the perfect way to finish off a perfect day.